end of an era at Bryce

Bryce Hospital demolition is happening now.

I could not help but share this photo of Bryce Hospital. I took it a couple of days ago while walking on the University of Alabama's campus. The hospital opened in 1861. At the time, it was near the university, which now owns it.

Another view of the demolition.

The stories concerning this facility are as complex as any other topic in the United States before the war. Before the Civil War, Alabama Senator Robert Jemison saw the value in lobbying for its construction here as a means of revitalizing Tuscaloosa after the state capital moved to Montgomery in the 1840s. Peter Bryce, the first superintendent of the then-Alabama Insane Asylum, reportedly wanted to stay out of sectional politics and thus the first African American patient was admitted into the hospital, which was a segregated institution like most of the South for several decades.

As I looked at this hospital,  I thought of how my  "Antebellum America" students (and grads in a separate course) are presently learning about young southern womanhood via Anya Jabour's study on the subject. I invited them to think about whether Louisa Garland, wife of UA's President at the time Union soldiers arrived in April 1865, was one of "Scarlett's sisters." In other words, was she as headstrong as Scarlet O'Hara character in the 1939 film "Gone with the Wind"?

Mrs. Garland certainly felt like one of those southern women who went against the grain of others' expectations when she reportedly left the dome of Bryce where she and her husband had been hiding during the Union raid. She rushed across campus to the President's Mansion and reportedly asked the Union soldiers to put out the fire they'd started in their attempts to burn the mansion (I am unsure of whether they had also targeted the slave quarters behind it). Most of the rest of the campus was already in flames.

Bryce Hospital circa 1907.

Bryce and the University fit into the narrative of an industrializing and urbanizing Tuscaloosa as the century closed. It's worth it to think about the hospital, which is now relocated off campus, in this context in the months ahead as renovations continue.

It is the end of an era, or perhaps several, and the beginning of a new one. The university plans to save some of the structure for use as an arts facility.

Bryce historian visits our class today

Certain portions of UA's Bryce Hospital are being restored.

Today Steve Davis, long-time historian for Bryce Hospital, will visit our class before we head over to the University's radio station for an interview about our December 3 music video "world premier."

I'd hoped that the students would have a chance to visit Bryce, which opened in 1861, before the semester ended. But it is presently undergoing repair following its recent transfer to the University. At least Davis can share with us some of the things he might have shared if we had been able to see it up close.

Almost a year ago, Davis kindly gave me and Dr. John Beeler of the History Department a tour of this facility, which sits on UA's campus. I can still remember standing in the dome, seeing far over into Northport and beyond, wondering what it was like the day the Union soldiers arrived to torch the campus in April 1865. I could see the President's Mansion from the dome and am not surprised that, as the story goes, the wife of the University's then-president descended the narrow corridor of stairs from that very room and high-tailed it across campus to save the mansion. As I prepare to teach the Civil War in my "American Civilization to 1865" survey class, I wonder what it must have felt like for the enslaved people in the area to know that they would soon be "free."

Bryce's history goes beyond the antebellum period. In fact, it offers opportunities to keep learning about leisure activities in an urbanizing world. The students are aware that as Americans began to work by a clock and not the sun, they made time to also play. Some attended baseball games. Some went to vaudeville houses. In the opening decades of the twentieth century, some listened to the radio and went to the movies.

During last year's tour, Davis showed us a theatre in Bryce where first-run movies were shown. Indeed, if you wanted to see a recently-released motion picture at the turn of the century, lucky Tuscaloosans  may have first seen it at Bryce. As I walked around the theatre and its peeling walls, I recall it reminded me of the theatre in my elementary school in Miami, although with fancier accents.

Author Harriet Beecher Stowe

I am personally looking forward to Davis' talk because we recently read about how Clarence King, the U.S. geologist who mapped the West for the U.S. government, had a nervous breakdown. Also, the students in my survey class are presently learning about how Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of the 1852 Uncle Tom's Cabin that Abraham Lincoln once quipped "started" the war,  once suffered from "melancholia." So did her husband. According to Jean Fritz, author of Harriet Beecher and the Beecher Preachers, which my survey class is reading, one antebellum treatment for depression was taking cold baths at resorts. I welcome learning more about mental health during the nineteenth century and how people who faced such challenges were treated at Bryce.

Perhaps Davis will also share more about Charles Kilgore, the Bryce engineer who once lived in a house near the hospital's campus. Earlier this semester, the students and I visited the former site of this house, which opened the door to co-ed housing at UA.

pushing ourselves to make connections over and over again

As we barrel toward the end of the semester, the students have a choice to read an excerpt from one of two books: Miss Anne in Harlem: The White Women of the Black Renaissance by Carla Kaplan or Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adiche. While both titles seem odd for a course on the "nineteenth century city," here is where the tire really hits the road. In the same manner that the students are being pushed to see "emerging city life" in the physical space of Tuscaloosa, they will be challenged to do the same via these two readings. Along the way, they will return to ideas they have learned this semester.

Miss Anne in Harlem will open the door for them to return to the idea of the "public feminine," or the ways that women began to politically inhabit spaces outside the home. But this time they will do as much in the context of white women in Harlem in the opening decades of the 20th century.  Among the women who venture to this space to partake in the black arts scene are British heiress Nancy Cunard and ex-pat Sylvia Beach, who once owned Shakespeare & Company, a bookstore in Paris and published James Joyce' Ulysses.

Fast forward to Americanah, which finds a Nigerian female college student returning "home," but not before commenting on all that she heard, saw and experienced in America. Think of her as a counterpart of sorts to Frances Trollope, the Englishwoman who failed at opening a bazaar in antebellum Cincinnati, but did well at writing a book in 1832 about Americans' bad manners. 

In both books, race, class and gender are still before us. Why? It's worth thinking about why such a conversation matters because they inform how people inhabit the public space today. Also, both books should push us to wonder about what it really means to be "American" across time, or how does the American city differ from other non-U.S. cities that found the likes of Beach, Cunard and Trollope, but also Ifemelu, the well-traveled protagonist in Americanah.

As we turn to the last edit of our music video, we will ponder, too, how the rural space is never entirely left behind even in a world increasingly defined by urban life. Why?

I want see the students to keep pushing themselves to make linkages across time. Where do we see the city and the many things that announce urban life in the characters and real people in these two readings? Where do we see the  "city people" that Gunther Barth describes, ones who lived in the emerging urban space between 1830 and 1910, give or take a decade?

Finally, next week I am pleased to announce that Steve Davis, historian for Bryce Hospital, will visit our class. The students' earlier learned about Bryce Hospital after visiting the former site of the Kilgore House, which once housed Charles Kilgore, a Bryce engineer and his family. The house, which was demolished last year, was the site at the University of Alabama to house female students. How do we insert mental health into the story of a modernizing world? After learning about the nervous breakdown of U.S. geologist Clarence King in Martha Sandweiss' study in last week's reading, it will be great to have more context via Mr. Davis.

Tuscaloosa, The Nineteenth Century City, a short film

We presented our short film, "Tuscaloosa, The Nineteenth Century City" today. Katherine Richter, Executive Director of the Tuscaloosa County Preservation Society and University of Alabama graduate, spoke after the film was shown. You may see the entire short here. Enjoy.